Daylesford-born chef Aaron Schembri – who trained at Osaka’s three-Michelin-star Hajime – works with wife Risa Kadota to craft a quietly assured experience where local produce speaks with a serene Japanese accent. Jerusalem artichoke custard hides under a disc of savoury onion jelly; black smoked herring roe and dotted slippery jack oil complete the image of a creek after rain.

Edible leaves, onion soil, sliced truffle and jewel-toned sweet potatoes make bucolic accompaniments to chicken breast. A miniature pumpkin made from pine nut and filled with potato and pumpkin mousse rests on an autumn leaf, as though plucked from the forest floor.

Kadota feels part home and part gallery, with pale wood ceilings, calligraphy scrolls on charred walls and lotus-root light shades. It’s a fine stage where every gesture, from the pouring of tea to the folding of napkins, feels intentional and attuned to the season.

Best for: An alternative style of kaiseki dining, set in the Victorian countryside.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.