The latest venture from creative director Alessandro Pavoni and the crew behind Ormeggio at The Spit is quite an undertaking. There’s a standalone bar doing a steady trade in negronis and lobster rolls. The cafe-gelateria is a destination unto itself and, of course, there’s the actual restaurant.

The menu gives generously when it comes to exciting, saucy carbs and scorched treats. Hook straight in and order the puffy, wood-fired pizzette, drenched in so much smoky-sweet sugo you can use it as a dip. Stay on the left-hand side of the carte for a beat if you want to linger over a glass of fizz.

Perhaps a serve of raw scallops on the shell, dressed with finger lime, chervil and salmon roe. Service is often two steps ahead, too. That might be a gentle lead through the menu, or knowing to bring extra bread to clean up the last of a particularly potent puttanesca.

Must order: If you don’t try one of chef Victor Moya’s many gelato flavours, you can’t really say you’ve been to Cibaria.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.