Even the driveway is a big deal here. Seemingly endless, it passes rolling vines before reaching a looming black steel arch, the entry to this popular tourist attraction. The oceanside winery and sculpture park hosts three restaurants of varying formality, but this vast space is the Goldilocks.

Your peachy, buttery reserve chardonnay comes with a three-course prix-fixe menu and views of monumental artworks from big names. Perhaps an iconic Kusama spotted pumpkin will whet your appetite. The menu offers glitz (caviar bumps, anyone?) but you’ll also find solid hits such as wood-fired snapper crusted with toasty almonds, resting on silken beurre blanc.

King crab pasta is dazzling: narrow pillows overstuffed with delicate crab and topped with crunchy, salty school prawns in smoked shiitake XO. Like the art, the wine list is sizeable and heavily awarded (plus, you can buy estate bottles for home).

Must-order: King crab caramelle pasta, smoked shiitake XO, fried school prawns.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.