Andrew McConnell’s flagship split-level dining room attracts a broad church, from lunching gal pals in buttery leather jackets to families celebrating special occasions and those who enjoy seeing and being seen. Gimlet’s many fans are also drawn to service that’s watchful but never intrusive, an ambitious cocktail program, and a menu of classics with just enough fresh thinking.

Plump, lightly seared scallops perch on tiny coins of hash brown. Meaty, charry prawns mingle with tendrils of calamari and tiny clams in a racy butter sauce dotted with tarragon. Honey tart is topped by flame-coloured kumquats and sits on a sugar-crunch base: a glorious finale.

But before you get there, you’ll be faced with a raft of steaks to choose between – dry-aged T-bone, wagyu sirloin or strip steak – knowing they’ll be wood-grilled, properly seasoned and sauced, and feel as grand as this room itself.

Best for: Celebrating, whether it’s an anniversary, promotion or simply being alive and able to secure a reservation.

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