There’s no sugarcoating the gnarly drive down the narrow, not-particularly-well-kept road to the Megalong Valley. It’s worth it, though. How often do you get to wander along rows of brassicas and wildflowers, just as the cherry blossom is coming into bloom, or quietly watch hens peck, while enjoying a cup of Jerusalem artichoke veloute and truffles?

This plush restaurant serves eight courses of produce mostly sourced from the surrounding farm, and chef Colin Barker’s menu speaks to fine dining the way it used to be done. There might be a crisp tartlet of blue oyster mushrooms and salted egg yolk to start, leading to a tender fillet of crisp-skinned Murray cod accessorised with tiny broccoli tips, baby leeks and chickpea miso.

Later, the richness of rosy Speckle Park steak is foiled by a silken Japanese turnip puree and cut with bitter, peppery wilted radicchio. Brave the trip, settle in for the journey.

Good to know: The modern-classic dining room features great views of the property wherever you’re sitting.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.