Eaten much capsicum and ponzu jelly lately? Guests at this hotbed of creation sure have. The beetroot-coloured jelly crowns a kombu tart layered with scampi tartare and whipped gochujang cream: a complex and surprising opening, and indicative of the innovative Japanese-Italian food mashups LuMi rolls out.

Yes, there are waterside restaurants with grander views, but clever lighting illuminates a parade of chefs in what is one of Sydney’s great theatre kitchens, while a soundtrack including William DeVaughn and Arcade Fire mostly tapers any stuffiness. It’s all about the drama on the plate, though, and dishes swing from a zippy red snapper crudo dressed with tomato water and wasabi oil to an earthy four-mushroom agnolotti that reminds you chef Chef Federico Zanellato’s food is rooted in tradition.

Meanwhile, service is attentive, and helps put into words what’s happening on the plate, but doesn’t always sparkle in the same way as the food.

Good to know: Request a table overlooking the kitchen to get a ringside seat to the action.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.