OK, very good. This is fun. There is bread, there are dips and plenty of ouzo. All your favourite Greek singer and songwriters are pumping on the stereo – Vasilis Karras, Pantelis Pantelidis, et al – and fat wodges of walnut cake come out on frosted glass plates.

“Homer” is graffitied multiple times on a bare concrete wall, and a long blue Easter candle burns alone in the middle of the room. The 100-seater is also packed with locals, stoked to have a new restaurant that bakes its own sesame-crusted koulouri rings, grills souvla, wraps dolmades and leans into Greek tradition with a high degree of enthusiasm.

Silky manouri cheese is sweet with honey, crunchy with kataifi and baked until it’s as bronzed as a surfer dad. Pork and chicken souvla understand their smoky-juicy-meaty assignment; “our mum’s moussaka” is a perfect no-nonsense square of beef and bechamel served hot.

Created by brothers Harry and Mario Kapoulas, Homer is a place where you can dress up to look nice and not be put out if there’s a guy at the next table wearing a backwards Oakland Raiders cap. Landing this kind of vibe is not an easy thing to do.

Good to know: There’s usually at least one staff member who can take you through the differences between assyrtiko and malagousia from the Greek and Australian wine list.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.