Now here’s a template for how to “farm to table” properly. Hey Rosey is essentially one big hallway, flanked by a meat slicer, small oven and mid-century bric-a-brac, and locals of all ages can’t get enough of the food and Orange wines (plus fair showing of French bottles and amaro for good measure).

The daily changing menu is largely based on what farmers are dropping off that week. “Farmer Doug’s” midnight pearl variety potatoes, for instance, are deep-purple, dense and nutty – brilliant for salt-baking and topping with quark, lovage and salmon roe.

Thin-sliced roast pork loin and pickled fennel are ruffled over saffron aioli and a terrific XO sauce; the truffle topping a lush comte tart is from “Sue and Andrew’s farm down the road”. Co-owner Leigh Oliver and chef Hugh Piper are committed to serving the full menu right up until 11pm, too. Hey Rosey, how good.

Must order: Cavatelli pasta with pork collar ragu is perfect for a cabernet-shiraz made by Orange legend Philip Shaw under his Hoosegg label.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.