A couple of plates in, after you’ve swiped your garlicky, herb-flecked flatbread through the last of the cod-roe dip and started to dunk red-hot fried ocean-jacket cheeks into green-goddess dressing, you might think: maybe I should have run less hard at the snacks. You’d be wrong.

The snacks are downright the funnest part of both Bessie’s and Alma’s, a two-for-one restaurant-bar in the old Chef’s Warehouse site from the team behind perpetually overflowing Bar Copains. But the sequel is more than a place to catch the overflow: beautiful people line the American-oak bar for one-sip martinis at Alma’s, while the dining room (Bessie’s) is all about natural wines and fire-kissed share plates.

Go small and a blistered wild greens pie is the pick. Go large and it’s the charred pork belly chop. Or mix it up, then pause to admire the kitchen, gleaming and glorious, before cracking into oozing Portuguese tart for dessert.

Good to know: Can’t nab a booking at Bessie’s? There’s enough ballast on the food menu at Alma’s to make it a meal.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.