There are no chaiwalas calling you to this skinny, split-level restaurant and chai bar, but its sweet scent of cardamom, clove and ginger works much the same way. At first glance, Flyover Fritterie may not look like the bustling street food stalls huddled beneath the overpasses (flyovers) of Delhi or Mumbai, but inside it feels just as lively, with communal counter seating and an open kitchen and bar, where slow-simmering chai kettles infuse the room with spice.

Then there’s the pleasure of picking up a hot pakora with your fingertips and dredging it through cooling beetroot yoghurt or a sweet-sour tamarind chutney. Purple cabbage fritters can – and should – be used as a spoon to scoop up coconut lime khichri, a soothing daal-like stew of lentils, chickpeas and rice. The chai, like everything else here, is steeped in tradition with a dash of modern flair.

Good to know: Like the chai? You can also get a one-litre bottle to takeaway.

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