There’s a whiff of woodsmoke and old money at this peninsula winery. Its understated fine-dining restaurant bestows daytime diners with spectacular vineyard views; at night, the vibe is moodier, each well-spaced timber table an intimate bubble of light. All around, staff introduce themselves by name, sweep crumbs from tables and suggest apt wine matches from a wondrous list.

A semi-open kitchen fuelled by fire creates compositions of many elements. The opening volley might include a fragile tartlet clutching marron, braised pork and creme fraiche; and cockerel liver parfait wearing a madeira jelly cloak.

Dry-aged duck, cooked until crisp-skinned, arrives on a plate daubed with beetroot puree, smoked milk and green peppercorn sauce, just like a painter’s palette. Jerusalem artichoke appears in both a pasta and an ice-cream paired with chocolate mousse – an echo of seasonality that will linger long.

Good to know: There are four different wine pairings offered, including a women in wine option.

Editor’s note: Ten Minutes by Tractor’s chef was changing at the time this review was published.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.