A winery restaurant that’s also an art gallery restaurant doesn’t usually signpost culinary fireworks. Thankfully, TarraWarra offers food to match the ambition of its exceptionally schmick gallery and vineyard. Forget popping in for a cuppa: this is set-menu territory, and therefore starts with a plate of one-bite fancy snacks.

Duck liver parfait piped prettily onto a little brown-butter cake is a standout. Raviolo in potato foam and intensely savoury chicken jus is a stunner. So too the granola dessert with sabayon, rhubarb and pear: a rubble of sweet-salty, fruity-crunchy-crisp good times that provides a welcome textural turn.

Wine? A tight, estate-leaning list. Service? Not especially engaging, but well paced. A worthy detour for anyone who loves to look at art three glasses deep, or enjoy their vineyard experience with a side of John Brack and Emily Kame Kngwarreye.

Good to know: If you really just want hummus, dukkah and olives, you can get those at the cellar door.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.