You’ve never seen two people more excited by new-season peas, packed with extraordinary pop and arranged in a pastry cup over precious oyster emulsion. But that’s the brothers Bertoncello: they make you feel like the evening’s bounty was harvested just for you. And if something wasn’t plucked directly from their farm, blame rockstar chef Jung Eun Chae; that’s her kimchi they’re using in their stunning tartare tartlet of O’Connor beef.

The sourdough starter is as old as the restaurant, an 11-year collaboration celebrated each service with a chewy loaf and a ruffle of just-churned butter. And then there’s the cabbage. Slicked with luxurious 16-hour reduced chicken jus they call “liquid gold”, it’s a rich reminder that brassicas can be heroes too – and that these knockabout gourmets are as handy on the pans as they are in the dirt.

Good to know: There’s value and intrigue in the wine pairing, and there’s VB cologne in the bathroom.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.