After 11 years, Koichi Minamishima remains Melbourne’s omakase king. His privileged tribe of regulars suffer no jaded palates, thanks to a bold commitment to evolution evidenced across 15-odd courses. Masterfully dainty coral trout with persimmon is dramatically revealed from under a smoky cloche. Supple flags of wagyu grilled on magnolia leaves betray an earthy aroma.

Comforting chawanmushi comes luxed with lobes of foie gras. The simple timber counter showcases the chefs’ graceful movements – all the better to spotlight the exquisite nigiri sushi: the rich hit of torched flounder fin, the meaty heft of king crab.

Randolph Cheung runs the floor with warm efficiency and proffers a drinks list bursting with sake and wine choices that match the food’s ambition. If you’re lucky, you’ve visited Minamishima more than once. If you haven’t yet been, it’s time to go.

Best for: An intimate and splashy night out with someone special.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.