The omakase peak of the post-COVID years may have passed, but a collective sense of anticipation still grips the obsessives every time there’s a new exclusive booking to chase. It’d be a misstep, though, not to keep Yoshii’s Omakase right at the top of the hitlist.

This is still the city’s most haute example of the genre, with impeccable sourcing and craftsmanship the hallmarks. See the raw platter, featuring an artful arrangement of whiting, paradise prawn, scorched bonito, tuna and kingfish veiled in daikon, with a tiny flash-fried Japanese river crab standing to attention. Or the squid nigiri over blood-warm koshikari rice, carved intricately and blanched until its flesh curls like petals.

Drinks could work harder, but piece by piece, bite by bite, the hits add up – blushing chu-toro; John dory aged in kelp – until a climax of sea eel sauced with 33-year-old soy brings the counter down.

Good to know: With only 10 seats, bookings are hard to come by. Snap one up on the first day of each month at 12pm sharp.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.