Joyful and enthusiastic are the words to describe the service at Takam, where the menu is delivered with enough helpful descriptions and cute backstories that it’s easy to want to order everything. Restrain yourself, because the plates are as generous as the hospitality.

One must-order? Skewered Mooloolaba swordfish, marinated Filipino style, barbecued, then served with a tart lemon aspen sauce, which offers a look into how Francis Dela Cruz, Aileen Aguirre and Lesley Roque so seamlessly meld the food of their culture with Australian produce. When they nail this approach, it’s thrilling.

Coal-roasted chicken inasal seems to take cues from Sydney’s charcoal chicken scene, then pushes it with a lemongrass, spiced vinegar and sweet-sour calamansi lime marinade. Add something from the wine list, which proudly supports young-gun Aussie makers, and a good time can quickly turn into a great one.

Good to know: Time your visit for happy hour, with drinks from $8 paired with excellent snacks, including cute palm-sized empanadas

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.