This sparkling Italian fine diner perched on a marina pier is clearly built for summer celebrations, with tinkling yacht masts in attendance. But with its warm welcome and golden lighting, Ormeggio shines on a cold, winter night as well. An opening “hot cocktail” of earthy porcini mushroom consomme topped with pumpkin foam, for example, is like a walk in the woods high in the Italian alps.

Chef Victor Moya and founding chef Alessandro Pavoni love a special-theme menu, but all hail the return to a la carte as well. It makes it slightly easier to choose between juicy little smoked trout sandwiches; Murray cod grounded by parsnip puree, kohlrabi and mustard seeds; plump seafood Bolognese cannelloni; and dry-aged, wood-grilled Tajima wagyu.

Delizia al limone is one of Sydney’s dreamiest desserts, a soft cloud of meringue softening the sharp tang of lemon gelato.

Good to know: You can buy a yacht while dining if the mood takes you.

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