Decisions, decisions. Do you opt for the “Classic” tasting menu with a focus on UK-based chef Clare Smyth’s signature dishes? Or request the “Seasonal” option with creations built on the very best of Australian produce and honed by Oncore head chef Alan Stuart? “Both” is the answer, of course, provided you have a dining partner happy to trade plates.

A visit to Crown’s supremely plush flagship restaurant isn’t complete without Smyth’s earthy yet delicate kombu-poached potato and its seaweed-infused beurre blanc, not to mention the “apple” of pink lady mousse encased in brandy-spiked gel. High-wire technique underlines the newer dishes too, including a John Dory fillet with black truffle “scales” in a pool of deep flavoured champagne veloute.

The wine list runs long and wide; the floor team considers every pour, cutlery change and linen napkin fold. Few restaurants in Australia – nay, the world – are this precise.

Good to know: You don’t need to book a table in the dining room to visit the bar for cocktails, caviar and very good fried chicken.

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