Terrazzo floors. Textured blush-pink travertine walls. Pops of red-ochre and orange through the tabletops, banquette and coasters. Lottie is, by some margin, the swishest spot to load up on guacamole in town.

Chef Joe Valero can do a lot more than smoosh avocado. His version of a sope (it’s like a chubby fried tortilla) is made with featherlight potato rather than masa flour and topped with kangaroo tail cooked for six hours in a stock of its own bones and various dried chillies to balance smoke, sweetness and heat.

Sinaloa-style chicken is marinated in a spice paste fruity with ancho chilli and dressed in a coriander-heavy aji verde with burnt lime. Goat is marinated, cooked whole and shredded into a tangle of meat with caramelised crust and a soft punch from apple cider vinegar. Pair all this with artisan mezcal or one of the rooftop-appropriate innovative cocktails.

Good to know: Lottie operators Liquid & Larder also run Bar Julius downstairs for classic drinks, all-day dining and another beautiful fitout.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.