Neil Perry’s Cantonese diner Song Bird may have closed unceremoniously, but Gran Torino has risen from the ashes. The result is pure Perry, founded on impeccable produce, obsessive about detail, depth of flavour and balance.

He and Richard Purdue have thrown back to Rosetta with much of the menu – proper layered and marinated vitello tonnato, say – and plenty of ingredients are shared between here and at Margaret.

For Perry fans, it’s one more way to enjoy the fruits of his supply network. Who else serves such sweet, complex Mishima bresaola, hit just a little with parmesan and olive oil? Or such stunning wild-caught kingfish, cut thick and sauced with classic salsa verde? The cotoletta is crisp, the cellar is forward-thinking, the pasta has spring, and tiramisu comes by the bowlful.

Gran Torino may not be the restaurant Perry wanted, but it’s the one he has. If he can’t make it work, no one can.

Good to know: Bar Torino downstairs is the place for spuntini and Spritzes in summer and negronis and salumi in winter.

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