Don’t miss the tomatoes when they’re in season at this Novocastrian newcomer that’s all brooding leather, terrazzo original sandstone and cedar. Owner-chef Joel Humphreys douses Ferrari-red ox-hearts in enough chilli oil to hold your attention, but never overpower the tomatoes’ heightened tomato-ness; pickled onion and lovage add further punch, and the salad is great mates with boudin noir – here, a warmly spiced slab of blood and pig’s head pudding on fromage blanc cheese.

Sydney chef Nic Wong is a business partner too, and helps out on the floor while Humphreys turns cranks on a mighty grill that can cook anything from scallops with chicken-fat bearnaise to whole pig. Steak might be a shaggy onglet covered in Cafe de Paris, and barbecued prawns arrive swimming in a long-flavoured saffron and fish stock sauce. Penny is still a growing restaurant, but it already feels right at home in this heritage part of town.

Must order: Any dish starring produce from local grower Dylan Abdoo at Newcastle Greens.

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