There are enduring pleasures to a table at Bathers’ Pavilion. The blue-and-white striped linen. The boathouse-chic interiors. The sun catching the waves lapping the sand at Balmoral. A broad, deep wine list with affection for name locals and Europeans. In settings like these, the food can fade to the background, but it’s testament to chef Aaron Ward’s nous that it sits, proudly, front and centre.

Snacks, including a raw tuna tartlet humming with fermented chilli, come out of the gate hard. Desserts, such as a triple-stacked mille-feuille piped with pistachio, Meyer lemon and salted vanilla creams and curds, crackle with energy.

In between, dishes read classic but build in unexpected moves. Agnolotti popping with liquefied pumpkin, or Wollemi duck breast cooked to retain its sweet, smoky fat cap rather than render it away. Waiters, meanwhile, are as across the menu as they are the cheese trolley. There’s never been a better time to dive in.

Good to know: The weekend menu is prix fixe, with snacks and sides as add-ons, but the bistro, kiosk and upstairs Thai restaurant mean the options are endless.

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