“I think every country in South-East Asia has its Chinese-influenced dishes,” says Rowena Chansiri, who opened Ama with her sister, Kate, last year. “But because we are Thai, we like salty, sweet, acidity and chilli, so we do it our own way.” And what a delicious way it is, with their grandmother’s Chinese-Thai beef noodle soup as the feature act.

Expect hunks of corned beef brisket, slow-braised for 10 hours, plus meltingly soft beef short-rib and a thatch of pickled mustard greens for savouriness; bright snappy greens for crunch. Three little beef balls add to the textural house party.

Also high on the comfort spectrum is braised pork belly on rice with black olives, slow-braised chicken layered over glass noodles, and floppy pork and prawn wontons topped with fried garlic. It’s worth ordering coffee, too, with Rowena on roasting duties to bring out the best in carefully sourced beans.

Good to know: You’ll need to plan any dinner missions around the 7pm closing time.

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