Heaven is a plate of roasted Jerusalem artichokes and crisp chicken skin served in a restaurant at the water’s edge. Welcome to Samesyn, where your kitchen team also runs the floor, and there are precisely zero bins. At the top, owner-chef and wine man Graham Jeffries might point you to a powerfully oxidative white from the Jura.

Chef Jonte Carlson may swing by next with a word on Samesyn’s stunning philanthropic efforts. And you’ll chat blue swimmer crab trifle, rare roo with fermented chilli, and crisp potato churros with the whole crew throughout this refreshingly intentional experience. Steak, dry-aged for 100 days and cut moments prior, is available by the 100 grams and sauced with garum butter for extra funk.

An inch of scorched Italian meringue tempers the passionfruit acids in the ice-cream that lies beneath; a texturephile’s dessert. Maximum flavour, minimal waste.

Good to know: Restaurant profits go to Feed Me, a local charity that cooks 6000 meals a week for people doing it tough.

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