If you think the seven-metre-tall jackalope sculpture is the most impressive artwork here, check out the view. Floor-to-ceiling windows that highlight 11 hectares of verdant, sloping vineyards ensure there’s not a bad seat in the house. Pick from a solid list of wines made on-site and sit back as switched-on staff cover your dark timber table with plates geared to comfort.

Garlic-marinated sardines, fragrant with preserved lemon, rest on bouncy, scorched bread. Spatchcock partnered with funky fish-sauce caramel works magic with the mellow creaminess of coconut-corn puree.

Pay attention to the specials: you might luck out with chargrilled octopus and coins of roast kipflers in a bright and tingly harissa-laced sauce. A fudgy choc-chip cookie, served straight from the wood-fired oven in a skillet, and served with a cool shock of malt ice-cream.

Good to know: A kids’ menu plays it straight with pasta, fish and chips, and sundaes.

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