There’s lofty ambition across this multifaceted business: a small team runs two different but equally impressive menus while keeping the venue low-waste and sustainable. Rice leftover from preparing the generous teishoku set meals is turned into congee, or perhaps magicked into cheesy mushroom and prawn doria, a rich Japanese gratin.

Konbu used in dashi stock is transformed into a condiment that seasons takeaway onigiri. The industrial space below a Brunswick apartment block has high ceilings and bright artworks that set a casual-chic atmosphere during the day before transforming into a surprisingly intimate spot for post-sunset snacks and sake.

Incredibly tender grilled squid is a smoky, lemony must-order, as is golden chicken karaage with wildly addictive ginger and black pepper vinaigrette. Can’t get enough? Pop into neighbouring Ima Pantry for a beautiful edit of Japanese groceries and takeaways.

Best for: Deepening your appreciation of sake through the beautifully described and curated selection.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.