From the outside, Fyshwick’s Dairy Road precinct is all carparks and warehouses, but inside a curious collective of creative businesses draw a crowd. They’re here to buy tea, try on Scandinavian office furniture, see theatre, do yoga. But they gotta eat, too.

There’s Capital Brewing and Barrio for drinks and coffee, but Canteen, in Building 3, is first stop for some of Canberra’s most pure and comforting cooking, never mind Fyshwick. Polished and elegant in its fitout, it’s a destination for its ramen first, the noodles fresh and chewy, the egg jammy, the tori paitan broth creamy and deep. But then there’s the mozzarella katsu on soft white bread, molten cheese stretching into strings, house tonkatsu sauce bringing edge.

The sake list is short and sharp, wine hews local and lo-fi, and creme caramel for sweets is a smooth finish. A testament to the capital’s ever-expanding dimensions.

Best for: A bowl of noodles at lunch, and snacks, noods and sake for dinner.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.