The energy on the 18th floor of the Ace Hotel may be as high as ever – the clash of textures, the Talk That Talk-era Rihanna on the speakers, the buzz of the tables, the personality of the waiters – but new chef Beau Clugston has flipped the food on its head.

An integral part of Noma’s Australia pop-up, which went deep on native ingredients, Clugston is picking up the thread from the get-go. Tartare is made with kangaroo piled on top of a sauce made from blue mussels. The citric burst of green ants bring edges to heirloom tomatoes, strawberries and zucchini strewn with raw prawns and underscored with creamed oysters.

Things are bright, colourful, clean-tasting, and a drinks list that keeps terroir front of mind only adds to the excitement. Add electric desserts and Kiln is, rightly, still one of the hottest tickets in town.

Best for: Hotel dining that feels anything but, with expansive views over the city.

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