Melbourne’s omakase boom produced a parallel interest in serene, Japanese-inspired fitouts. But as Yugen’s glass elevator sucks you down past a six-metre-tall bar and a floating golden orb, that interest dies. Forget Zen – tonight, your fine-fish appointment takes place on a gilded mezzanine marked by culinary extravagance.

It’s only right then that your duck-egg chawanmushi is festooned with gold leaf and caviar, and that your Patagonian toothfish – perfectly firm – lazes about in elite nori dashi and complex chive oil. Clearly, chef Samuel Chee has flair to spare, but his ambition is franked with excellent knife skills, shown in his nigiri. Supple scallops thrill with little more than lemon salt.

A trinity of exacting tuna cuts, from lean to luxuriously marbled, highlight the creature’s prized textural diversity. Add a phenomenal sake program and the somm to match – Lucas Chiche-Righi – and the opulent omakase sells itself.

Good to know: Not a sake person? You’re about to be - put your trust in Chiche-Righi and he’ll find something that speaks to you.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.