The subdued tones of this minimalist sushi showroom belie the choreographed action behind the timber counter. A blissful freedom from choice runs through 22 courses, as owner Yong Hyun and his assistant chef slice, torch and daub a parade of seafood both familiar and exotic.

Inventive nigiri accounts for 14 courses: Tasmanian sea perch tickles the fancy with a sprinkling of the island state’s mountain pepper. Salt and vinegar-marinated NSW blue mackerel is married to the clean cut-through of pickled kombu. Chef Hyun understands his blade as intimately as he does his raw materials – a triplicate of bluefin tuna cuts highlight the fatty beauty of this prized fish.

Whether you’re revelling in the comfort of steamed king crab with garlicky ponzu and an earthy froth of tofu foam or marvelling at the refreshing properties of sake lees sorbet, one thing’s clear: this is omakase artistry.

Best for: A special night out – expect to encounter birthday and anniversary celebrations.

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