Fashion’s so-called “sardine summer” might be trending, but this Sardine has been a well-oiled machine since 2017. Diners aren’t squashed in, though, thanks to three shopfronts spanning wine bar, private dining and restaurant. Young floorstaff ferry plates and describe them with enthusiasm, including a new suite of pastas and risotto.

Scrolls of freshly extruded casarecce are tossed with spanner crab in a bisque of such depth, it’ll ping your tongue like sonar waves. A delicate tart shell with scalloped edges is loaded with house-smoked eel wearing a creme fraiche cloak, the richness lifted with crisp apple and fresh horseradish.

Seared and sliced tuna loin is surrounded by edamame and brightened with daubs of shiso-ponzu gel. Blackened, jerk-rubbed pork tomahawk with sweet carrot puree nods to the Caribbean, while snapper fillet with luscious chicken jus triumphantly straddles land and sea.

Good to know: Casual wine bar Sardine Cantina next door serves and stocks aesthetically pleasing things-in-tins from Portugal and beyond.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.