This outlook must be in the running for most quintessentially Victorian vineyard view. A brutalist limestone edifice gently curves to frame the spectacular landscape. Below: sloping rows of cool-climate vines and wetlands abuzz with bird life. Above: views stretching out to the eponymous bay. While the flocks of Eastern Rosellas squabbling overhead bring a touch of anarchy, in the minimalist, glossy dining room, it’s all about precision.

Sourdough arrives warm with hand-churned kefir butter. Snapper is crackle-skinned perfection resting over torched sugarloaf cabbage. Wagyu porterhouse is as buttery as you’d dare to dream it.

You’ll want an excuse to get into the single-block pinots on offer, and that excuse is an excellent piece of duck: seared, blushing and juicy under toasted pistachios and a little jus. Satisfyingly retro, a shining chocolate dome envelops a dark chocolate mousse, with freeze-dried mandarin the crowning finish.

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