Does wine taste better sipped in sight of the vines that produced it? Paringa Estate is here to aid the inquiry. Its elegant vintage shiraz, sourced from the home block just beyond the glass-walled dining room, is a clean match for a blushing swatch of Sher wagyu slicked with fermented truffle jus.

Chardonnay grown just off to the side is a plush playmate for pork belly with the jammy perk of quince. The border-crossing food of new kitchen incumbent Josh Kraupner-Taylor touches on ajo blanco, ’nduja and taramasalata. But all signs point towards charred mackerel resting on seaweed custard with pickled mushrooms, the bold brininess and inspired idea together hitting a home run.

This may not be the fanciest peninsula dining room but the adjoining cellar door delivers plenty of energy, while the vineyard views add to a captivating story.

Best for: A long and lazy lunch with a designated driver.

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