If every neighbourhood should have a good baker, butcher and cafe, perhaps it also needs a perfect little fine-dining restaurant? Seven years in, Navi is just that. When chef Julian Hills launched, the feeling was “welcome to my home”. The warmth persists but Navi has grown into itself.

There’s an adjoining lounge bar, more tables in the restaurant, and the team and energy has expanded in-step. A thrilling non-alcoholic pairing includes a ferment of red grape must and rooibos that’s as layered as good pinot noir. The eight-course tasting menu is complex – beetroot six ways, puffed beef tendon with anchovy – but dishes always resolve into pure enjoyment.

House-aged duck – served on Hills’ own handmade ceramics – includes adroitly cooked breast and, perhaps, koji-brined duck heart, melting pancetta or kofte with liver. It’s a signature medley expressing both consistency and unending creativity.

Good to know: Reservations can be elusive but you can also pop into the adjoining bar for creative drinks and snacks.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.