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14.5/20

Kin

Updated ,first published

Chocolate flourless cake with muscat coffee custard.
1 / 9Chocolate flourless cake with muscat coffee custard.Kate Shanasy.
Outside the flagship restaurant.
2 / 9Outside the flagship restaurant.Kat Shanasy
Kingfish with a “native curry” consomme.
3 / 9Kingfish with a “native curry” consomme.Jason Robins
The go-to dish: Mussels in a warm tomato water.
4 / 9The go-to dish: Mussels in a warm tomato water.Jason Robins
The elm-lined driveway leading to All Saints Estate.
5 / 9The elm-lined driveway leading to All Saints Estate.Jason Robins
Inside Kin.
6 / 9Inside Kin.Kate Shanasy
Lemon verbena and white chocolate ganache choux bun.
7 / 9Lemon verbena and white chocolate ganache choux bun.Jason Robins
Roasted eggplant with bush tomato relish.
8 / 9Roasted eggplant with bush tomato relish.Kate Shanasy
Strawberry and durif sorbet with Italian meringue.
9 / 9Strawberry and durif sorbet with Italian meringue.Kate Shanasy
14.5/20

Kin at All Saints

Contemporary$$$

A lunch-only winery diner in a stunning redbrick castle.

Set within the manicured grounds of historic treasure All Saints Estate, Kin is a haven of blonde timber and leather banquettes. Vast windows overlook a postcard view of rusted sheds and rolling vines. The set menu of two or three courses starts with added snacks, perhaps pastry tartlets crowned by shredded duck, and house-baked focaccia with sweet brown butter. It might finish with a wedge of sweet-salty saganaki.

Oyster mushrooms from nearby Markwood team up with bright chickpea miso and a soft egg. Charred corn is blanketed by goat’s cheese foam, and spatchcock takes a surprising turn with a tomato and fenugreek sauce inspired by butter chicken.

Everything’s smartly geared towards generous wine matching, and the premium “Family Cellar” option ($55) might include bright marsanne, creamy chardonnay and a lush Bordeaux-style red – perfect partners for a long lunch.

Good to know: All Saints is one of several wineries in the region owned by siblings Angela, Eliza and Nicholas Brown, part of the storied Brown family.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.

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