Are we still on Lygon Street, Toto? Step into a parallel universe where Zen exerts its calming presence in austere grey walls offset by mustard carpet and enormous paper lanterns rising like the full moon. Kazuki’s has run its own race since 2018, gently probing the intersection of French technique and Japanese tradition while keeping some surprises up its sleeve.

To wit the snacks, a seven-strong volley of one-bite delights that bend the rules without breaking them: chicken liver parfait profiteroles dusted in raspberry powder, swordfish crudo on Korean bugak seaweed crackers, and kangaroo jerky bristling with sansho pepper.

Delicate ocean trout delivers a subtly umami shio kombu curveball, and lamb backstrap conjures “Sunday roast in Tokyo” vibes. The artisanal wine list is as thoughtful as the food; opt for the “fancy” wine matching to unlock this singular restaurant’s full potential.

Best for: A reverential meal of discovery with wine-obsessed friends.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.