Collingwood Yards’ flagship bar-restaurant is a beacon for the cool kids of the inner north. But it’s also so much more. The music is au courant, the wines au naturel and the chef, Blake Ellis, oh-so-handy throughout an uncomplicated Italian-ish menu.

Raw scallops with creamy celeriac puree are livened with a zap of sauvignon blanc vinegar and caperberries. A colourful canopy of pickled radicchio and chicory adorns silky smooth ricotta. There’s olive oil to spare, and that’s where the signature, spongy focaccia comes in.

Oyster and shimeji mushrooms, egg yolk and dark sesame oil is an intensely savoury, Japanese-inspired detour, while ruffled malfadine ribbons, verdant with silverbeet sauce and crunchy with pangrattato, plant you squarely back in the Med. The rambunctious dining room can feel nightclubby, with rotating DJs and a heaving crowd inside and out; dress for fun.

Good to know: More than a restaurant, the online radio station walks the talk with regular music festivals, plus workshops and life-drawing classes.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.