Slide onto a clamshell-shaped banquette and settle in. You’ll spend the next few hours admiring a winking constellation of globes overhead or perhaps the tightly composed dishes placed in front of you on Australian-made ceramics.

The natural richness of mackerel is cleaved by apple and fennel, and a leaf-shaped tuile of buckwheat rests on the plate nearby. Rare veal backstrap joins a burnt cauliflower puree of impressive depth. For best results, pair it with an unusual blend of shiraz, pinot noir and the Georgian grape saperavi from local label Quealy.

Jerusalem artichoke is battered into thin sails that sit upright on a brownie, interspersed by bright mandarin segments - an inspired combination. The inky black room is quiet, tables are well-spaced, the stemware is high quality and, if you’re staying upstairs, you’re mere minutes from your bed.

Good to know: You’ll be offered a three- or five-course set menu at the time of booking.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.