A shell of a shed turned into a warm bistro with an adjacent working winery certainly sounds industrial, but the experience here is very much about the human touch. Peruse the one-page menu: one week it may include sky-high focaccia, bright housemade pickles and a couple of pastas, signalling a fondness for the cuisines of northern Italy and southern France.

Another time there’ll be croquettes containing the eternal comforts of cauliflower cheese. Charred Brussels sprouts rest among rolling hills of whipped labne, and stewed apples cosy up between shortcrust to create a paragon of a pie.

Service is efficient and unflustered, whether you’re a huge group or a cute date. Part of The Mill, a multi-venue drawcard that includes Long Paddock Cheese (which occasionally stars on the menu), Boomtown feels capable, cheerful and generous.

Good to know: There are two house wine labels: namesake Boomtown is quaffable; Minim is more for savouring or cellaring.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.