Over 10 or so courses, owner-chef Ben Shewry and his team deliver a meal that centres on thoughtfulness, Australian culture and the respectful use of Indigenous ingredients. You might begin with a fried sprig of saltbush, savoury and crisp, paired with a riberry tart and wattle wafer, both meticulously composed.

A souva of sorts comprises shredded saltwater crocodile ribs wrapped in fresh flatbread, accompanied by macadamia yoghurt. Kangaroo satay is fantastically tender, served alongside fragrant rice that merges Indonesian flavours and Australian produce including wattleseed, native currants and quandong.

At some point, you’ll be asked to step outside the low-lit room and into an alternate universe where Shewry conducts some of his more avant garde experiments – a surprise we’ll leave you to discover. Service can feel rote, but is Attica still great? World-class? Not many restaurants are, but this one absolutely is.

Best for: A contemplative evening rich with First Nations ingredients and foodways.

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