Askal’s culinary director John Rivera is also behind the ultra-creative Kariton gelato shops, but brings a whole bag of tricks to this, his first restaurant. Glass bricks and exposed brick walls hint at the classic and contemporary influences on the menu.

Chicharon – thick curls of pork rind – are cut with house-made vinegar and make an ideal snack with a tropical take on a mezcal paloma. Flavours blast at full volume, whether in Maggi-boosted pancit canton noodles wok-tossed with blue swimmer crab, or slices of pork belly sweetened with banana ketchup.

Siomai dumplings come heaped with fresh herbs and chilli crisp flecked with toasted rice. A young coconut sorbet might be found at Kariton, but here it’s served with a party-starting shot of lambanog, a spirit made from coconut palm. Continue the fun upstairs at Inuman, the venue’s rooftop bar.

Must-order: The ‘skinato’ sandwich – crisp chicken skin on squishy white bread.

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