Turnip and spelt taco? It sounds like dinner at the commune, but in the hands of Amaru’s boundary-pushing chefs, it becomes two unforgettable bites loaded with the glorious richness of brown butter. That snack is one of six launching you headlong into a waltz through ingredients as humble as the carrot – the jewel crowning a cheesy, smoky sable – and as precious as marron.

The tail of the freshwater shellfish glistens like a ruby, its claw meat formed into a meatball paired with preserved shiitake of intense depth. Contemporary paintings match the astonishing places this 15-course tasting menu goes, with suited waiters to guide you and pour Lebanese, French and Slovakian wines on the journey.

Tonka bean ice-cream, banana fudge, citrus and a farmhouse ale caramel combine bitter, salty and sweet in perfect proportions, a head-spinning send-off to match this truly unique degustation.

Best for: Experiencing one of Australia’s most unsung tasting menus, if only to show your friends you’re in the know.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.