Type “pastoral farm-to-table restaurant” into Google Image Search and you’ll probably get a picture of somewhere that looks very much like Zin - Food and Wine, a ten-minute drive from Mudgee’s town centre. Regional food hero Kim Currie runs the Lowe Family Wine Co restaurant and, with its vases of wattle, vineyard views and an invitation to wander the permaculture garden between courses, it’s the kind of place where you may need to draw straws to designate a driver.

A five-course menu often features lamb raised on the property, perhaps a forequarter braised overnight in a carry-over stock and served with just-harvested vegetables; house-made pasta of chewy bounce; and a parmesan custard tart crowned with matchstick beetroot, chervil and assorted leaves, all perfectly dressed. Tables aren’t turned. There are no two-hour-maximum sittings. The flagship zinfandel is as poised as the service.

Good to know: The Zin House has relaunched as Zin - Food & Wine. The new restaurant is more casual and approachable, with dishes designed to share.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.