Many people know Shunde, if they know it at all, as Bruce Lee’s ancestral home, but this district of Foshan, in the heart of the Pearl River Delta, is renowned for something more: its food. Taste of Shunde, here and in Eastwood, is a chance to experience the greatest hits, starting with roasted goose shipped out on a scallop-edged platter, the skin burnished gold.

It’s not Hurstville’s finest goose (try Golden Sands), but the seafood is exceptional: fish cakes of impressive bounce and lightness; green chillies stuffed with minced freshwater dace and fried until sweet. And then there’s the bamboo platter, an epic life-long memory built around a whole steamed fish and sheet noodles, doused in fragrant sauces and topped with pipis and prawns.

Quivering stir-fried milk is another specialty, made to spoon out to families and friends on tables set for sharing. Haven’t been? Get a group together.

Good to know: There’s also a yum cha menu available during the day.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.