With a stunning location and a quarter-century history of serving fine Italian food to a who’s-who of Sydney business, fashion and media, it’d be easy for Otto to take its eye off the ball. But this harbourside institution, rocking a wide-ranging wine list and a menu of Italian classics from chef Richard Ptacnik, remains one of the best lunch spots in town.

Gnocco fritto with house-made bresaola, honey, vin santo and gorgonzola is a brilliant opener: crisp, sweet, fatty, acidic and rich in all the right places. Scallop tartare on brioche nails the balance of textures, while pasta runs from rustic all the way up to a spin on Venetian spaghetti all’Aragosta sauced with cherry tomatoes, lobster and brandy.

The paparazzi of old may have moved on, but gazing over the water with a crisp Alto Adige pinot grigio in hand, Otto still feels like the place to be.

Best for: A reminder of how to get waterside dining right.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.