What is luxury, anyway? Lobster, caviar, high marble-score wagyu? Osteria Mucca, one of three new openings – along with Mister Grotto and (soon to rebrand) Flora – joining Continental Deli in a strip on Australia Street, says no thanks. Reflecting the site’s history as a butcher, chef Janina Allende homes in on alternative cuts, coaxing them to deliciousness through time and attentive cooking.

Coppa di testa, say, with strips of pig’s ear throughout. Or cotechino, the gutsy pork sausage checked with salsa verde and mustard fruits. Candles flicker, plates are rimmed in gold, tables dressed with tablecloths hum with activity. This, too, is luxury, although it’s not all deep cuts.

House ricotta is crowdpleasing comfort and a plate of lamb turns out to be the city’s finest mixed grill, while pastry chef Lauren Eldridge’s Sicilian cassata is fast becoming the stuff of legend. And hey, there’s always the bistecca alla Fiorentina.

Good to know: Love Lauren Eldridge’s desserts? She does them across all four venues in the strip, and runs bake sales at Flora on Saturdays.

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