You’ll smell the grill at Olympic Meats before you see it. The scent of spice and fat and oregano. Of mallee wood and ironbark. When you do see it, it’ll be a thing of beauty: a triple-stacked barbecue running at capacity, pillars of chicken and pork rotating slowly over glowing coals, lamb chops flashed hard over hot spots, chillies drying slowly in the rafters.

Helming it? Timothy Cassimatis, who’s poured his life into mastering every aspect of the menu he’s offering from this former takeaway opposite Dulwich Hill station.

Queues form for takeaway gyros and craggy tallow-fried chips, but the move here is to wait for a table and sit in, overloading on sourdough pita, warm fava and vinegary brined octopus strewn with green chilli. And the meats, obviously: hot and salty and unforgettable. BYO, clink glasses, meet your neighbours. This is how yiayia would do it.

Good to know: Tables fill up fast, but the QR code will keep you posted on your place in the queue.

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