A reimagining of the starship-like modernist restaurant atop Red Hill, with faceted bay windows offering views over the city, Lunetta glows – inside and out – with warmth. It’d be easy to lean retro, tapping memories of wedding anniversaries or birthdays over steak diane and crepes suzette, but this is a restaurant for the now.

Plenty of that is down to chef Tristan Rebbettes, who with the help of a wood grill lends fresh perspective to familiar dishes. Yamba prawns are half-peeled, grilled hard, then plated with bright salsa rossa and a thrumming peperoncino.

Crudo equals precision slices of ruby Ulladulla tuna under a mosaic of blowtorched orange, figs and marigold, with burnt honey expanding the dimensions. Drinks and service play up the sense of occasion, as does a pear and honeycomb dessert that’s a layered, architectural triumph. Intrigued? Just follow the beacon on the hill.

Good to know: Downstairs, Lunetta Trattoria offers polished Italian and aperitivo with sightlines over the capital.

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