There’s a lot to be said for a restaurant with a landline as its only means of contact. As customers bite into lush cheese garlic rolls or the supple Cossaca Marinara pizza, they hear the voice of Georgio Panousos, who opened Frankly Nick’s with his childhood friend William Kay in late July.

This is old-fashioned restaurant noise, and diners stream in from all angles, grabbing seats at the tomato-red tables indoors and on the footpath to eat in a spot that feels like an old-school pizzeria mixed with a traditional ristorante.

Kay and Panousos grew up in restaurants, and it shows in the service and on a one-page menu ranging from charred, stretchy cheese and garlic rolls, to puffy edged pies that range from classic to “Sacrilege”, a twist on ham and pineapple that sees the fruit infused with whisky liqueur. Conchiglie alla vodka is oven-baked, tomato salad is impressively simple and gelato-affogato is a cute finish. Frankly, how good.

Good to know: A phone-only ordering system for pick-up has been expanded to include online ordering, with cute merch also available.

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