This former food-stall business built its reputation with grilled lamb and wagyu on sticks, but now there’s also veggies and seafood, such as charred octopus with oyster cream. Owner Raymond Hou sources exceptional produce and his team are dedicated charcoal whisperers, working with intent from an open kitchen.

Firepop was named New Restaurant of the Year in the previous Good Food Guide, and it has only gone from strength to strength since. Hou’s life and business partner Alina knows what wine or cocktail you want before you do, and the dishes are pushing more limits (see the carp with burnt-chilli salsa and super crisp skin that will make you rethink the fish species’ dodgy reputation).

Smoked caciocavallo cheese melted over mushrooms and topped with honey and truffle is grand, while the panna cotta with olive oil and white balsamic strawberries has become a modern Enmore Road icon.

Good to know: The mobile food stall still pops up at events to serve its signature cumin and dukkah lamb skewers.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.